Capri Key Origination

As a locksmith technician, I find that making a key to a vehicle can be a really easy task or hassle sometimes. Nowadays, for most make and model automobiles, in order to make a key from scratch, all that is needed is getting a code from the locksmith database software system using the VIN number. However, in the "old days" and even for some models pre 2000, there were two options that are still in use today for originating a key. The first one is impressioning which can be somewhat of a headache as this method works on 50% guessing the cuts that needed to make the key. The second one is by code as well except that the code will need to be retrieved from the cylinder itself. This mean taking apart the steering column for ignitions or door panels and mechanism for the door lock. Even though it may sound time consuming, it will still be much easier and more accurate than impressioning.

I got a call the other day from a customer who wanted a new key mad for his 93 Mercury Capri. He claimed that he can't find the key he had anywhere in his house, so he would need a new key originated from scratch. I didn't have much experience working with these types of models before, but I did make a key for a similar Ford model before, so I decided to accept the job. As far as I remember, making a key to the Ford model did not involve any type of issue, and I recall making a new key successfully.

When I arrived to the customer's address, I ran a quick review of my locksmith key origination book to get some information on the key blank that I needed and the series number that was required in addition to the code in order to make the new key. Since it was mentioned in the book that the same key supposedly will operate all the locks in the vehicle including the ignition, I figured I could take apart only the lock on the door to read most of the cuts and then use the series information to complete the cuts to operate the ignition.

After I finished taking apart the door panel and all the necessary components that were on the way of accessing the lock to read the code, I was able to retrieve it and started to make the new key. Once I finished making the key, I started testing it around the vehicle starting from the door locks, trunk and finally the ignition. When I got to the ignition, I noticed that I couldn't get the key inside it properly to turn it. After few minutes playing with it, I realized its not going to work and I called a fellow Reno locksmith of mine for advice.

When I got my technician friend on the phone, he mentioned that he had encounter this type of issue with these older Capri models. He then said that the issue is in the key blank. Apparently, the part that was closest to the head was not narrow like on the original key and needed to be file a bit in order for the key to fit properly in the ignition. And so I did. I filed the part closest to the head from both sides and surprisingly I was able to insert the key successfully to the ignition and start the vehicle. It seem as this issue is only related to these Mercury models as I haven't had any problems using the same blank on other manufacture models such as Ford or Mazda.  

Ford Ignition Tip

I found that the most common issue with older Ford models ignitions is that the ears on the exterior of the ignition tend to wear out or break most of the time which will allow the ignition to spin even if there is no key in it. For this type of issue there are few solutions. One of them that is the most common which many locksmith technicians use which is using a roll pin that will prevent the worn out ears from spinning the ignition. This will work on most Ford 10-cut ignition.

I did find another solution however using a lab pin. The way that it works, the ignition would need to be removed first from the steering column. Once the ignition cylinder is out, the key-way face plate will need to be aligned using a blank key. Then the final step would be to drill a hole large enough to fit the lab pin in it. When inserting the lab pin, it is recommended to use superglue or other similar product to prevent from it to move or fall out.

Using the roll pin method can be very secure for this type of fix, but for me it seem that using the lab pin will work just as good and takes much less time to work with. In addition, it can easily be found in every professional locksmith pinning kit. The last time I services this type of ignition was over a year ago and I never heard any complains from the customer or any other customer before hand in which I applied the same fix on the other Ford ignition jobs.

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